Hap Stretcher: Modifications

When building the hap stretcher, I deviated a bit from the construction instructions since the supplies available here were slightly different from those in the materials list.

Material mods

  • 4 lengths of select pine (1-2-6), i.e. 6’ long, 1-1/2” wide, and 3/4” deep
  • 4 round wood knobs (1.5-inch)
  • 72 dowel pins (1/4″ x 1-1/4”)
  • 4 hex bolts (1/4″-28 x 1-1/4″), i.e. a 1-1/4” long bolt with a 1/4” diameter and a fine thread
  • 4 hex nuts (1/4”)

Measurement mods

Here are the tweaks made because of the overall board length and metric to customary system conversions.

  • The holes for the knobs start 4.5” in from each end of a board and are spaced 3.5” apart.
  • The dowel pins are placed 3.5” apart.

Hole Position Diagram

Construction mods

  • The first step of sanding was skipped. Sanding occurred after all drilling was complete and before gluing.
  • All measurement marks were made at once. A red pencil was used to mark the holes for holding the boards together. A regular lead pencil was used to mark the pilot holes for the dowel pins.
  • An awl was used to mark the hole locations.
    Awl Marks
  • Holes indicated by the red pencil marks were drilled first. Then a piece of masking tape was wrapped around the drill bit to mark the depth for drilling the pilot holes. Then all the pilot holes were drilled.
  • Glue was not only applied to one end of each dowel pin, but also into each pilot hole. Note: A wooden skewer is handy for getting the glue down into the pilot holes.
  • The wooden knobs came with only a hole drilled into them and no metal threading to screw into. So the hex bolts and nuts were used to make sturdier connecting parts.
    Hap Stretcher Knob
    The photo shows that a pilot hole was drilled into a knob, and then a hammer was used to insert the nut into the pilot hole.

At this point, the stretcher is almost ready to use. The weather has not cooperated to apply the coat of polyurethane, but soon it will get done.

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